What's the Best 'First Car' for a Teen?

What's the Best 'First Car' for a Teen? The best car for a first-time teen driver is the one that will decrease the odds of that first-time accident happening - and minimize the potential for harm if it does.

The object is to shield your teen as much as possible from the almost inevitable consequences of youth and inexperience. Even if your kid is mature and responsible, he or she is still inexperienced behind the wheel. It takes a lot of seat time to become familiar with how a car behaves in various situations - for example, in ice and snow, at night, under unexpected conditions - and also to get a feel for how others behave in their cars.

Those first 12-24 months are the "danger zone" when accidents due to errors of judgment, lack of experience - or just plain old being in the wrong place at the wrong time - are most likely to happen. It's also why it costs so much to insure a 16 or 17-year-old driver.

Here are some general car-buying guidelines that will help keep your teen driver out of trouble:

* Choose a car - SUVs and pick-ups are poor choices for first-time drivers - especially SUVs and trucks without 4WD. They tend to be light in the rear (because the weight of the engine/driveline is concentrated up front) and so have a tendency to fishtail during panic stops or when the road is slick. You can crutch this somewhat by loading up the bed (or cargo area) with a few hundred pounds of dead weight - or by springing for an SUV or pick-up that has 4WD. But even with 4WD, pick-ups and SUVs are inherently less stable, more tipsy, take longer to stop - and are thus more dangerous for a just-minted teenaged driver. It's better to learn the essentials in a car before moving to a specialty vehicle of any type - whether it's a pick-up, SUV or sports car.

* Choose a larger car - Bigger and heavier is inherently safer - especially in the event of a crash into a fixed object (such as a tree) or with a larger vehicle (such as an SUV). Larger cars offer more built-in occupant protection because they're able to absorb more force than smaller, lighter cars. If you go to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's web site (www.carmild.com )you'll see that vehicles in the full and mid-sized category tend to score much better in crash testing than cars in the compact and smaller categories. Avoid subcompact-sized cars - even if they do get better gas mileage. A very small car like a Toyota Yaris or Honda Civic coupe stands little chance when T-boned by a Suburban.

* Choose a car that's in good overall shape - Basic reliability can be as important as basic safety. You don't want your kid learning the hard way about bald tires, bad brakes, shot shocks and a worn out suspension. Whatever car you end up buying, take the time to make certain it is mechanically sound and completely roadworthy. Have a reputable shop or mechanic give it a thorough once over - and fix anything that needs fixing. Leave the broken down el-cheapo special "beater" for your son or daughter's next car.

* Choose a car without a wing, hood scoop, loud exhaust or powerful engine - Teens being teens, few have the judgment to resist being egged-on by other teens to "see what it'll do." If it looks fast or sounds fast you can bet they'll want to see just how fast it really is. And the end result is often tragic. Just as new pilots don't start out in F-18s, new drivers should be kept away from cars with capabilities beyond their limited experience. V-8s and powerful V-6s should be off the menu, period -but be careful about four-cylinder powered cars, too. Some modern four-cylinder engines have turbochargers and other power-adders that make them as or even more powerful than the V-8 muscle cars of the '60s and '70s.

Also keep in mind that you/you teen will pay much less to insure a basic sedan or wagon vs. anything "sporty" or powerful.

* If you do choose a small car, be sure it has multiple air bags - Air bags protect against impact forces in a crash - and are particularly valuable in smaller vehicles as they compensate to some extent for smaller size and weight. If you must buy a smaller car, try and find one with both frontal and side-impact/curtain air bags as they will dramatically improve the survivability/crashworthiness of a smaller car, especially if it's hit from the side by a larger vehicle.

* Choose a car with a manual transmission - In some European countries, a license applicant must take his or her driver's test in a car with a manual transmission. The reasoning is that a person who has mastered starting a car on a hill without stalling or rolling backward, who knows how to smoothly engage the right gear at the right time to safely merge into traffic and so on - has probably mastered the basic skills necessary to be a safe driver.

Modern cars are deceptively easy to "drive" in the sense of getting them going - and going very fast, too. Almost any 10-year-old could physically put the key in the ignition, move the handle from "Park" to "Drive" - and floor it right through the closed garage door and straight into your kitchen. Operating a manual transmission, on the other hand, is a skill that takes time to develop and which imparts respect for the skill it takes to do so competently. Learning to drive on a stickshift car is a great training tool that will help your teen become a better - and therefore safer - driver.

Bonus: a car with a manual transmission is usually capable of better fuel economy and is typically cheaper to buy, too.

* Choose FWD or AWD over RWD - Front-drive cars (FWD) and all-wheel-drive cars (AWD) have better traction in rain and snow and so are more controllable than a rear-drive (RWD) car. Rear-drive cars also have a tendency to oversteer (tail out) when they begin to slide out of control - while front-drive cars tend to understeer (the front of the car "plows") , which is easier for the novice driver to deal with. If you must go with a rear-drive car, try and pick one that comes with some form of electronic traction control to limit wheelspin on slippery surfaces and ideally, an electronic stability control system - which uses the anti-lock brakes to keep the vehicle on course when it would otherwise begin to slip out of control.

Lastly and perhaps most importantly - do all you can teach your teen driver to drive with respect for others and to obey common sense as much as the letter of the law. For example, "speeding" is considered by many to be the Primal Sin of driving; but tailgating can be more dangerous and likely to result in a wreck - even though cops don't pay nearly as much attention to it as they do to drivers doing a a few MPH over the posted limit.

If you can afford it, consider enrolling your teen in a car control/vehicle dynamics/accident avoidance course such as those offered by Bob Bondurant (www.carmild.com), Skip Barber (www.carmild.com) or other professional driving schools. These courses explain what happens during emergency situations - such as panics stopping or an abrupt swerve to avoid and obstacle on the road - and how to handle them - in a safe, controlled environment.

Though the cost can be high, it's a lot cheaper than a totaled car - or a lost life.

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What Can Your New Car Do For You?

What Can Your New Car Do For You?

We all know it is cheaper to fix things yourself. It is the same with a car or truck. The biggest expense with any repair is not the parts, but the labor. It is not uncommon for repair and service shops to be charging $60 to $70 per hour of labor. And they round to the next half hour or hour for any repair. Just go to any new car dealer and ask to have your windshield wiper blades replaced. They will charge you 10 times the price of replacements at your local auto parts store. So anything you can do yourself to save will be a big help. The purpose of this article is to show you some things you can do on your own and how to get the lowest prices on parts so you can save big and put your money towards something better than fattening your local auto dealers pockets.

First off is routine maintenance. Routine maintenance consists of items like oil changes, tire rotations, and similar. Oil changes are a must at every 4000 to 5000 miles for most every car. Do not go by what your dealer says. They want to rev up your maintenance plan and have you doing more than is required. Instead, use your owners manual. If your car didn't come with one, than buy one off of Ebay. The owners manual will give you exact recommendations for every service and when and what should be done. For oil changes use Walmart. They charge around $15 for a oil and filter change and will lube your chassis at the same time. They will also check your tires and change your air filter if you desire or need it. They have the best service for the lowest price and at $15 its better to have them do it than do it yourself. Expect to pay twice this at a new car dealer.

It is also a good idea to check your tire pressure at every gas fill up. A tire pressure gauge can be purchased at Walmart or any auto parts store for a few dollars. Proper tire pressure will prolong the usefulness of your tires and help ensure better fuel economy. To most people a under inflated tire is pretty obvious, but a over inflated tire can be just as dangerous as it can lead to blowouts and loss of traction especially in wet conditions (hydroplaning). Also, check your tires for nails, punctures, slashes, anything that could be wrong with it. If you need new tires, be sure to shop around and avoid the new car dealer as they will have a huge markup on them. For instance, 1 ZR Goodyear tire for a 2002 Ford Mustang GT was $289. The same ZR tire with a different make (Kumho) was $100 installed and balanced (the $289 at the dealer did not include installation or balancing. Shop around and look at discount stores. Also look at Costco, Sams club and BJ's for tires. If you have an older car and don't care about matching the exact style you can always go to your local junk yard and buy an entire set for dirt cheap. You would be amavzed at what you might find there. A friend of mine picked up 4 tires for a 1999 corvette for $150 and the tires only had maybe 10,000 miles on them if that.

Lights and lighting on your car are an item that is routinely overlooked. If your lights are dim you could have a battery charge, alternator or dim, cloudy lenses. These are all easy to fix. A battery should be checked for its ability to hold charge at least once a year (more in extremely cold climates). An alternator can be replaced very easily, or if you don't feel comfortable a local mechanic can do it. Do not do this at a new car dealer as they will charge at least 300% more. A good tip is to go and buy the part at your local auto parts store and then inquire with the counter clerk as to a mechanic that they recommend to install it. You will save a lot and it will be professionally done. They will probably even come to your house to do it. As to your headlights, turn on your lights. If they are dim, is it the bulb or cloudy lenses? If it is the bulb, the cheapest replacements can be found at Walmart or on Ebay. It is recommended you go with brighter Xeon bulbs as they are only a few dollars more and increase brightness and night visibility by over 20 percent. If it is cloudy headlights there is a new headlight repair and restoration kit that will restore the lenses to new. This will save you big over replacement as the average plastic automotive lens costs $250 to replace.

Checking your fluid levels routinely is a good idea. A lot of cars now will do this for you and will even alert you to when it is time to perform a certain service. It takes 2 minutes to unscrew the oil cap and pull out the dipstick. On older cars you should also look under the cap. Is the oil really dirty, sludge like, or have white in it? These all indicate something needs to be done. The first two mean it is in dire need of an oil change. The latter with the whiteness or light chocolate look means you have a blown head gasket and coolant is leaking into the engine. That is really bad and requires major repairs and can be the result of running a car too hot. Fill all fluids to the fuel full line or indicator. By routinely checking your cars fluid levels you will be ahead of the game and keep your car running better and for much longer.

Another great idea to keep service costs to a minimum and save you big at the same time is to buy 1 to 3 year old used cars with around 30,000 miles on them. Then drive them until you get 100,000 miles on it and replace it. Most major repairs rarely occur before 100,000 miles with proper routine maintenance. Use and follow your owners manual. It was written by the ultimate expert, the people who built, designed and tested your car.

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Cars That Died, And Probably Deserved To

Cars That Died, And Probably Deserved To, Over the past three years, more brands of cars - and specific car models - have been sent to the glue factory than at any time since the early '30s, in the wake of Great Depression 1.0 Did they deserve to die? You decide!

* Saturn Sky - Based on GM of Europe - AKA Opel's - GT, the Sky (and its late lamented Pontiac stablemate, the Solstice) was a stunning car to look at; much more dynamic and stylish than, say, a Mazda Miata. But unlike the Miata - which was a great car to drive - the Sky and Solstice weren't.

For one, the engine sounded terrible - like a high-miles economy car four fitted with a cheap aftermarket "fart can" muffler. While other sports car engines sang when revved, the Sky's cleared its throat like a phlegm-laden old trucker. Handling was clunky, too.

But the worst offense was the '69 MGB body integrity. The Sky's convertible soft top fit poorly and leaked both air and water, which dribbled down onto the door side panels. It was impossible to hold a conversation without shouting at speeds much above 60 mph. The power window switches were located so far back on these panels it was almost impossible to use them while driving. Ditto the cupholder, which was mounted on the very rear of the center console, making it all-but-unusable while the vehicle was moving. The gas gauge was dime-sized and buried a foot deep in the gauge cluster, making it a guessing game how close you might be to empty.

Verdict: A pretty car whose comely exterior hid numerous unattractive flaws. Looks alone won't cut it - and didn't.

* Hummer H2 - You could make a case for the H1. It was a civilianized version of the military Humvee - and if you needed an unstoppable off-roader, it fit the bill.

But the H2 was nothing more than a Chevy Suburban with a Tonka Toy Hummer truck shell draped over it. And thus, a fraud. A big, stupid, ugly, pointless, gas-guzzling, poor-handling - and not even good for off-roading - fraud.

Circa 2003 I got one to test drive. I called up three buddies and we headed out to try the thing off road. At the entrance to the area where we intended to do some mud-bogging, there was a puddle maybe three or four inches deep and about three or four feet in diameter. I drove over it at a moderate speed. Immediately, multiple lights on the dash went off and the engine dropped down into "limp home" mode. It ran, but barely. Unable to get the H2 going faster than about 25 mph, we creeped it home on a very busy Northern Virginia highway, a half-mile of angry motorists stacked up behind us.

I wrote "I love global warming" with my finger in the dust on the liftgate glass. The H2 was good at just two things: Defrauding the public and creating a rolling eyesore.

Verdict: As preposterous as an "estate home" McMansion on a quarter-acre lot.

* Pontiac Vibe - Technically, the Vibe still lives, because Toyota is still making them.

The Vibe was never really a Pontiac but rather a "badge-engineered" Toyota Matrix re-sold under the Pontiac label. (And the Vibe/Matrix was of course itself merely a Corolla draped with ugly, mini-dumpster bodywork. )

That alone made it worthy of retirement. Why bother? Buying a "Pontiac" Vibe was a lot like buying the same blue bottle of store-brand NyQuil sold right next to the real stuff, except you didn't get the one advantage of buying the store-brand stuff - namely, a lower price. The "Pontiac" Vibe was actually priced above the Toyota Matrix - on the rickety theory that people would be willing to pay more for a Toyota if it was sold through a Pontiac dealership, with all the prospects for great customer service that came with it. Genius!

Verdict: The Most Pathetic "Pontiac" since the Daewoo-sourced LeMans of the 1980s.

* Saab - This one's a mixed bag. Not all that long ago, Saab was an up-and-comers car, a peer of BMW. Circa mid-late 1980s, a Saab 9-3 convertible was among the coolest things on four wheels. It was a car you bought yourself after graduating law school - or getting that first real job. Saab, the company, was much better placed than its crosstown rival, Volvo - which at the time was still known mainly for its stodgy, boring, god-awful slow PETA staff cars that no one with any life force still pumping within them wanted any part of.

Then GM bought the company. And systematically strangled it. By 2008 - when everything began to go sour - Saab was already ghosted. An afterthought. Not even spoken of in the same sentence as BMW. Or even Volvo.

Its cars were staid - or weird. And overpriced, too. Most of the flair that had characterized previous Saab models had been systematically sucked out of them, leaving a lineup of slightly oddball-looking things with often-iffy reliability and BMW-level MSRPs with Lumina-level plasticky interiors.

Verdict: Saab's downfall parallels the story of Randy "The Ram" Robinson in the movie, "The Wrestler." It's a train wreck, but you can't stop watching it.

* Mercury - AKA Ford's Pontiac. There was a time when, like Pontiac, Mercury had something worthwhile to offer. In fact, it operated as a quasi-independent automaker only loosely associated with parent company, Ford. It sold unique or at least different enough models - not rouged-up Fords with higher price tags. Its cars also had great names like Marauder and Turnpike Cruiser (as opposed to Mariner and Mystique).

What you got was higher-class performance; nicely trimmed out cars that moved when you stomped on the gas pedal but which also had an adult demeanor lacking in most Fords.

Fast forward to the recent past and what greeted the prospect upon entering a Mercury showroom? Ford Explorers (and Escapes and Crown Vics) with ... wait for it, now .... higher price tags.

Verdict: Mercury's been dead for years but just didn't know it. Now it does.

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Used Car Buying Guide & Things to Think About

Used Car Buying Guide & Things to Think About, Buying a used vs. a new vehicle can be a smart move, but like most things in life, there are definite pros and cons ... and some other things worth thinking about, too.

The main pros -
* You won't pay new car sticker price; someone else will do that for you. The savings here can be enormous, even on a slightly-used (2-3 year old car), typically 20-30 percent or more.

* Because today's new cars are more reliable than the new cars of 10 or 20 years ago, today's used cars are more reliable, too. That means buying used is less risky than it ever has been.

* Because modern new car warranties are so good - in some cases, as long as 10 years/100,000 miles on major components such as the engine and transmission - the odds are good you'll be able to find a late-model used car that still has at least a portion of its original factory warranty (which is almost always fully transferrable to you) intact.

The main cons -

* Used car prices right now are actually upticking; in part because last year's "cash for clunkers" program reduced the inventory of used cars, in part because more buyers these days are shopping used rather than new as they try to cut back on expenses.

* If you plan to finance, expect to pay more for interest. And: Stay away from dealers that advertise "Buy here, pay here." These places are shark pools - and you are the chum. Shop your financing from a credit union or reputable bank - and get it all lined up before you start shopping for the vehicle.

* It's not new, so it may need maintenance/repair work - which could throw costs into the mix you didn't budget for.

Things to keep in mind -

* Try to shop when you don't have to. A mistake many people make is "emergency shopping" - they find themselves in sudden need of wheels - any wheels - and feel pressured to buy something - anything - ASAP. This is a great way to end up with the short end of the stick. Try to anticipate the need for a vehicle and shop for it at your leisure, on your own schedule. That will take the pressure off and help you make the right decision.

* Each used car is an individual. All new cars are pretty much the same. One dealer's brand-new F-150 is going to be the same as the dealer across town's brand-new F-150, so you don't have to worry about condition or how it was maintained. You can focus on price and other things. With a used car, condition is at least as important as price - arguably even more so. A good deal on a crappy car is not going to make you happy.

It's always a bit of a gamble when you buy a used vehicle, which is why it's smart to have any used car you're seriously thinking about buying inspected by a mechanic or shop you trust before you commit to buying.

* Research the rep. While relatively few late model cars (those built during the past 8-10 years or so) are out-and-out lemons or have major problems, some are - and more important (because the odds of it affecting you are higher) some makes/models can cost more to maintain, or need maintenance more often, than other cars in their class/segment.

For example, certain vehicles are known to be harder on tires than others, or seem to need brake work more often - or have a history of early transmission failures. Etc. These are things you want to know about before you buy.

You can get information about prior recalls and major known defects from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's searchable database at http://www.recalls.gov/nhtsa.html. Consumer Reports is a great resource for detailed information about any given vehicle's general record for upkeep costs and problems reported by owners. See http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/index.htm.

Red Flags -

* Unusually low (or high) miles - Most of us consider low mileage to be a good thing - and most of the time, it is. Lower mileage usually means the car has more life left in it - and that you'll spend less on maintenance/repairs. Still, be wary of any vehicle with advertised mileage that's abnormally low for its age. It could be odometer fraud. Or (just as bad) it could be a mess from years of just "sitting there" - which can be as hard on a car as going to the dragstrip every weekend.

On the other end of the scale, cars with very high miles may be ex-rental or "fleet" cars - not necessarily a bad thing, but the bottom line is that miles on the clock equals wear and tear - and the more miles/wear-and-tear on a vehicle, the more likely it is you'll be spending money on repairs and maintenance.

Generally speaking, it's normal for a car to rack up about 10,000-12,000 miles per year for every year it's been in service. So, for example a 2007 model year vehicle would typically have about 30,000 miles or so on it. If it has significantly more (or less) miles on it than it ought to for the year, ask why - and be sure to get an answer that makes sense.

* Will it pass emissions? In areas where a successful "smog check" is necessary in order to register and gets plates for a car, be sure the vehicle will pass emissions before you buy it. You can use this as a haggling point, and if the seller's willing to knock the price down to allow for what it's going to cost you to get the car through smog, you'll be much happier with the deal.

* The "As Is" disclaimer - It should read "Whatever goes wrong is now your problem" - which would be more honest. When you see "As Is" on a bill of sale, be aware that most any problem that crops up after you take possession is going to be your problem. Caveat emptor.

Exceptions do exist for misrepresentation, which can involve fraud. But be aware that even if you're in the right, legally speaking, it can still be a huge hassle (and expense) to get your money back.

* "I'm selling it for a friend". . . This red flag should be as hard to miss as Michael Jackson asking if it's ok for your eight-year-old son to sleep over at his place. What you're probably dealing with here is a "curbstoner" - a person who buys and sell cars (usually, crappy ones) after a quick detailing and (sometimes) lots of Bondo and Motor Honey thrown in to mask a rotting shell and tired engine.

Curbstoners typically acquire the cars they sell on the cheap at wholesale auctions, or by purchasing them from others. They then clean them up a little - and sometimes fix obvious problems and place an ad in the classifieds or on Ebay representing the car as their own ... until you notice the name on the title and paperwork is different. Then they explain it's "a friend's car" - or maybe "Uncle Bob's." Walk away. Rapidly.

* It's already "warmed up" for your test drive. Never buy a used car you haven't had a chance to try starting up after it's been sitting overnight. If you don't you could be in for an unpleasant - and potentially expensive - suprise the morning after you've bought it.

Many mechanical/maintenance-related problems either show up or are much worse at cold start. For example, a worn-out engine will tend to clatter (valve/lifter problems), make tell-tale noises (rod knock/worn bearings), or smoke excessively when it's first started up in the morning. These are possible signs of major underlying problems which are sometimes masked or muted once the engine warms up. A problem with hard starting or erratic engine pefomance could also be hidden from you by a seller who has let the car "get ready" for half an hour before you arrive.

The Test Drive -

* If possible, test drive several of the same make/model vehicle before you commit to one; this will give you a better feel for what "normal" ought to be for that specific make/model of car or truck - which in turn may help you avoid buying the one that has a problem.

* Pay special attention to the oil pressure, temperature and Volt gauges (if equipped). A high or low reading (or vibrating needle/fluctuation) could hint at big problems you don't want to inherit.

* Make sure the "check engine" light comes on at initial start-up and then quickly goes out. If it doesn't come on at all - or stays on - there could be expensive issues with the emissions controls you don't want to deal with. Keep on shopping.

* Do an up-close physical inspection of the entire exterior; in particular, look for body panels that don't seem to align right as well as evidence of paint overspray on rubber trim around windows and doors, emblems and so on. Body panel alignment (including gaps between panels) on modern cars is extremely close-tolerance; if it's not, be suspicious the car was possibly in an accident. If you find any overspray, you'll know it was in an accident.

* Pop the trunk and smell the carpet (do this inside the cabin as well). If you smell a moldy smell, the car leaks at minimum and may have been flood damaged. Water damage is not worth messing with. Pass on this car.

* On a straight section of road, briefly relax your grip on the steering wheel to see whether the car tracks straight. If it doesn't, at minimum it needs an alignment but it could have more expensive suspension issues.

* Get up to about 45 mph on a straight section of road and apply the brakes firmly. The vehicle should stop straight and remain in control. If you feel a mushy pedal, vibration or the vehicle seems to take overly long to stop, it likely needs brake work. Maybe, more.

* The engine/transmission should not make any weird or excessively loud noises (again, if you took the time to test drive several of the make/model vehicle you're considering, something that's "not right" will be obvious). Be sure to operate all accessories, such as power windows, locks, cruise control, the stereo, AC system, etc.

The bottom line is, everything ought to work properly. And: listen to your Spider Sense. If something doesn't feel right or sound it probably isn't right. Move on to the next candidate.

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The best place for your Hummer car needs

One of my favorite cars, cars that look masculine, such as the Hummer, the display that is designed for this guy probably will be one of my next collection, in because of functional or aesthetic design that made very classical and also strong, giving his own appeal for the fans monster car, even for the travelers in the Hummer seem suitable to have, because it can be brought may in all fields, only need to replace some parts of the Hummer, such as wheel and the other ...

Hummer also be a private car is very beautiful, just need to add some accessories Hummer, that could make us even more beautiful and more authoritative in the drive, did you ever drive a Hummer on the street would feel different to driving a regular car like a sedan or a similar model . and someone else also thinks "wow" extraordinary

but sometimes many people have trouble finding the place of purchase accessories for the Hummer or Hummer parts, but now it is available where the purchase of accessories for the Hummer even online you can access it and indeed in the devoutly for its Hummer course, this means the Hummer experts already makes it easy for you all the hobby with this car, so you do not need hard to find in any city or place of service that they are not necessarily experts in the installation or the modification of Hummer accessories

I hope this information allows you all to find a place to purchase quality Hummer accessories and who is an expert in this car

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How to Pick a First Car for Your Teen Driver

How to Pick a First Car for Your Teen Driver, The ideal car for a first-time teen driver is one that will decrease the odds of that first-time accident happening -- and minimize the potential for harm if it does.

The object is to shield your teen as much as possible from the natural and inevitable consequences of youth and inexperience. Even if your kid is mature and responsible beyond his years, he or she is still aninexperienced driver. It takes seat time to become familiar with how a car behaves in various situations -- in ice and snow, at night, under unexpected conditions -- and more to the point, how others (that random element) behave in their cars. That initial 12-48 month period is the "danger zone" when accidents due to errors of judgment, lack of experience -- or simply being in the wrong place at the wrong time -- are most likely to happen.

The car you choose for that first year or three of real world behind-the-wheel training can make all the difference between smooth sailing -- and something that didn't have to happen.

Here are some general car-buying guidelines that will help keep your teen driver out of trouble:

* Choose a car: SUVs and pick-ups are poor choices for first-time drivers --especially SUVs and trucks without 4WD. They tend to be light in the rear (because the weight of the engine/driveline is concentrated up front) and thus have a tendency to "fishtail" during panic stops or when the road is slick. You can crutch this somewhat by loading up the bed (or cargo area) with a few hundred pounds of dead weight -- or by purchasing an SUV or pick-up that has 4WD. But even with 4WD, pick-ups and SUVs are less stable, more tipsy, take longer to stop -- and are thus more dangerous for a just-minted driver than a passenger car. It's better to learn the essentials on a car before moving to a specialty vehicle of any type such as pick-up, SUV or sports car.

* Choose a larger car: Bigger and heavier is inherently safer -- especially in the event of a crash into a fixed object (such as a tree) or with a larger vehicle (such as an SUV). Larger cars offer more built-in occupant protection because they're able to absorb more force than smaller, lighter cars. If you go to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's web site (www.nhtsa.dot.gov) you'll see that vehicles in the full and mid-sized category tend to score much better in crash testing than cars in the compact and smaller categories. Avoid subcompact-sized cars -- even if they do get better gas mileage. A very small car stands little chance when T-boned by a Hummer. (A side benefit of a larger car is it can carry more stuff -- a fact worth pointing out to your road-tripping teenage son or daughter.)

* Choose a later model car: Basic reliability can be as important as basic safety. You don't want your kid learning the hard way about bald tires, bad brakes, shot shocks and a worn out suspension. Whatever car you end up buying, take the time to make certain it is mechanically sound and completely roadworthy; have a reputable shop or mechanic you trust give it a thorough once over -- and fix anything that needs fixing. Leave the broken down el-cheapo special "beater" for your son or daughter's second car.

* Choose a car without a wing, hood scoop, loud exhaust, big engine -- or anything else that says "I'm looking for a race": Teens being teens, few have the judgment to resist being egged-on by other teens to "see what it'll do." If it looks fast or sounds fast you can bet they'll want to see just how fast it really is. And the end result is often tragic. Just as new pilots don't start out in F-14s, new drivers should be kept away from cars with capabilities far beyond their limited experience. V-8s should be off the menu, period -- but eyeball even the four cylinder cars out there because some of them may not look like much but are in fact silly-fast things no one under 18 should be allowed near. (Side bennie: You will pay less to insure an under-21 driver if you avoid sporty, high-performance vehicles and stick with basic transportation - mid-size, family-car style four door sedans and wagons especially.)

* Choose a car with ABS and at least dual (driver and front-seat passenger) air bags: Pretty much any car built after about the 2000 model year will have both of these safety features. Anti-lock brakes (ABS) help prevent the vehicle from skidding out of control during a panic stop as a result of the brakes "locking up." Air bags protect against impact forces in a crash -- and are particularly valuable in smaller vehicles as they compensate to some extent for smaller size and weight. If you must buy a smaller car, try and find one with both frontal and side-impact air bags as they will dramatically improve the survivability/crashworthiness of a smaller car. (Bonus: Many insurance companies will discount the premium for a car equipped with these safety features.)

* Choose a manual transmission: In some European countries, a license applicant must take his or her driver's test in a car with a manual transmission -- the logic being that a person who has mastered starting a car on a hill without stalling or rolling backward, who knows how to smoothly engage the right gear at the right time to safely merge into traffic and so on -- has probably mastered the basic skills necessary to be a safe driver. Modern cars are deceptively easy to "drive" in the sense of getting them going -- a 10-year-old could physically put the key in the ignition, move the handle from "Park" to "Drive" -- and floor it right through the closed garage door and straight into your neighbor's kitchen. Operating a manual transmission, on the other hand, is a skill that takes time to develop- and is a great training tool that can help your teen become a better -- and therefore safer -- driver. (Bonus: a car with a manual transmission is usually capable of better fuel economy and is typically cheaper to buy.)

* Choose FWD or AWD over RWD when possible: Front-drive cars (FWD) and all-wheel-drive cars (AWD) have better traction on dry pavement as well as in rain and snow and are thus more controllable than a rear-drive (RWD) car. Rear-drive cars also have a tendency to oversteer (tail out) when they begin to slide out of control -- whereas front-drive cars tend to understeer (the front of the car "plows") , which is easier for the novice driver to deal with. If you must go with a rear-drive car, try and pick one that comes with some form of electronic traction control to limit wheelspin on slippery surfaces and ideally, an electronic stability control system -- which uses the anti-lock brakes to keep the vehicle on course when it would otherwise begin to slip out of control.

Lastly and perhaps most importantly -- do all you can teach your teen driver to drive with respect for others and to obey common sense. Point out examples of good and bad driving -- and show them how it's done by your own good example. Warn them of the dangers of being cocky and overconfident. Deal strictly with poor conduct and bad choices -- and pull those privileges if your son or daughter does something that shows he or she may not have the proper respect for being in charge of a potentially lethal piece of machinery.

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The touch-DKR Mcchip Improve Performance VW Golf R

The touch-DKR Mcchip Improve Performance VW Golf R, Variants of this one was often a touch of modification. Yups, Volkswagen Golf or commonly called the VW Golf. Starting from the version of the GTR or R it is tempting to cut back. Like do not want to miss it, the tuner in the company's German engineering Mcchip-DKR has created a set of new upgrades for the Volkswagen Golf R. Changes that are offered include new software applications for Machine Control Unit (ECU) is able to increase horsepower almost 17 percent of the total power of 270 PS (199 kW/267 bhp) and torque of 350 Nm (258 lb-ft) to later become PS 315 (232 kW/311 bhp) and 440 Nm (325 lb-ft).

Maximum engine torque output has also increased substantially from 350 to 440 Nm, the profits which reached almost 26 percent. Construction costs for upgrade this machine set-DKR Mcchip worth 899 Euros, or approximately USD 10.2 million. Hhmmm not too expensive .. right? Its composition has also been designed to work optimally with one of the gearbox car.

For others, the company had set a 350 Euro (USD 3.97 million) for the suspension, and install a shortened output that can be H & R. Not just any pairing, this new equipment can also be directly tested for safety the Golf R itself but with the additional cost of 59 euros (USD 660 thousand). The biggest cost comes from Ultraleggera OZ alloy 8x19-inch size that is set for 3190 Euros or approximately USD 36.2 million. The black wheels look increasingly characterized by high Performance tires wrapped in Michelin Pilot Sport Cup output size 235/35.

Overall, there is almost no significant change inherent in this hatchback body. However Mcchip-DKR believes that customization was doing would attract a positive response users VW Golf R. So no need to shell out a lot of money to get more Golf Performance of R, if modifications for 4500 Euros (USD 51.1 million) has been able to answer your desires. But then again .... your choice remained in the hands of the fans Golf R.

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cool model Projector headlights for your car

One of my friends always comment on the appearance of my vehicle, especially my car, any color-changing body, wheels and even the windshield, she always pays attention to every detail of the vehicle, and without the realize I also like that, if they see a car pass, always pay attention part which is often seen, and jimmy comment on my headlights, he said: Projector Headlights your car is not interesting, not quite fit with the color of your car, he said that,


and finally I try to see, in my opinion it is the same, and I try to find a place for the sale of Projector Headlights are cool, so my car looks better, fortunately I found a site, which really provides all automotive equipment and the chance to provide Projector headlights with variations for all brands of vehicles and various colors and models that are designed with the elite of the online sales site, special automotive equipment carId, after replacing Projector Lights for my car, and I think that's good, and any comments from my friends, more than expected, he said wow "extraordinary Projector Lamp" is very beautiful especially when viewed at night ..

and I feel proud and satisfied as well, and the quality of carId was already very famous all over the world, after seeing, all items are sold quality is amazing, and I think this is the place to complete the sale of vehicle accessories, I guarantee, you starch will be satisfied with the accessories that has been provided with various kinds and high quality, you can also order online and shipped directly to the place you are, of course, also an online payment, so you do not have to bother to come directly to you just choose the goods in accordance with your desire, and for any type or brand and quality according to your needs

that's my little experience on my car, and found the best place for my vehicle equipment, if you are interested please check directly carid site and if interested you can directly order, look beyond the car's own impressions and to bring pride to a luxury.

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2010 CTS wagon Reviewing

Reviewing the 2010 CTS wagon, The fact that you can now buy a Cadillac sportwagon gives you an idea how much has changed at Cadillac. Pop-off wire wheels and vinyl roofs are no longer on the options list. Beating BMW and Audi is.

WHAT'S NEW FOR 2010

The CTS sportwagon is Cadillac's newest model and the first-ever Cadillac sportwagon.

WHAT'S GOOD
Preying Mantis malevolent good looks. Knife-edged handling. Outstanding performance from optional direct-injected 3.6 liter V-6. Huge cargo area. Sharply crafted interior. More powerful - and quicker - than a BMW 3-Series wagon. Much more powerful than an Audi A4 Avant. Vastly less expensive than a BMW 5-Series wagon ($55,800 to start) or Audi A6 Avant ($53,310 to start).

WHAT'S NOT SO GOOD
Preying Mantis malevolent good looks may be too edgy for some buyers. No manual transmission option (even though one is available in the virtually identical CTS sedan). More expensive than a BMW 3-Series wagon (starting price $35,400 for rear-drive, $37,400 for xDrive all-wheel-drive) or Audi A4 Avant Quattro ($35,350).

ENGINES & PERFORMANCE

The CTS wagon offers the same two engine choices as the CTS sedan - a standard 3 liter V-6 that produces 270 hp and (optionally) a 3.6 liter V-6 that produces 304 hp. Right off the bat, this gives the aggressive Caddy an advantage over the BMW 3-Series wagon - which is not available with the 3-Series sedan's optionally available twin-turbo 3-liter six (300 hp). The most you can get in the BMW 3-Series wagon is the not-turbocharged and much less powerful 230 hp version of the 3 liter six - which is 40 hp less potent than the Caddy's standard engine and 74 hp down from the Caddy's optionally available engine.

The four-cylinder-only Audi A4 Avant, meanwhile, is totally outclassed.

The fact that the CTS wagon is also a larger car than either the 328i or the A4 Avant makes matters even bleaker (for BMW and Audi). Their size (and power) equivalent models - the 535i wagon and A6 Avant - are as much as $10,000-$15,000 higher-priced to start than the CTS wagon. Advantage, Cadillac. Both CTS engines feature variable valve timing technology and direct fuel injection, a more efficient way of getting fuel into the engine's cylinders without sacrificing power.

Both engines are also high-compression (11.7:1 for the 3 liter engine; 11.3:1 for the 3.6 liter engine) yet operate on regular unleaded fuel. Many high-powered (and high compression) engines in this segment either recommend premium for best performance and economy - or require it. The Caddy's 18 city/27 highway EPA fuel efficiency rating (3 liter engine w/RWD) is also slightly better than the much less powerful BMW 328i wagon (17 city/27 highway) and even more impressively, matches the four-cylinder A4 Avant's highway number (27 mpg) while only giving up 3 miles per gallon to it on city mileage (21 for the four-cylinder Audi, 18 for the V-6 Cadillac).

The BMW 5 wagon (with 300 hp engine) slurps it down at the rate of 16 city, 23 highway. The also-300 hp A6 Avant does better: 18 city, 26 highway. But neither beat the CTS. A six-speed automatic transmission is standard with either CTS engine; no manual transmission is available. All-wheel-drive is optional with either engine - a nice touch when you look around and notice that with many AWD-available luxury cars (sedans and wagons) you have to buy the optional engine to get the AWD. That's not the result of greed; it's necessary because the standard engine lacks enough power to deal with the added weight/loading of the AWD without noticeably hurting acceleration.

The CTS has no such problems. Both 3 liter and 3.6 liter versions are quick cars (0-60 in about 6.8 seconds for rear-drive versions with the 3.6 liter engine and just over 7 seconds for rear-drive models equipped with the 3 liter engine).

DRIVING IMPRESSIONS

BMW has for years been the standard for "driver's car" - the high water mark of perfectly synched steering, athletic balance and overall eagerness to be driven hard - yet also absolutely civilized when not being driven hard. The CTS sedan is certainly the BMW 3-Series sedan's equal. And the CTS wagon is better than the 3-Series wagon.

It's stronger and quicker, first of all - at least when equipped with the 3.6 liter engine. As noted earlier, BMW withholds the 3-Series sedan's optional twin-turbo six from the 3-Series wagon - allowing a gap of 74 horsepower between it and the CTS sedan. And it's not just raw power, either. The Caddy's engine is an engineering tour-de-force, upping the ante with both variable valve timing and direct injection - which gives it more power with better gas mileage than the BMW six. The Caddy's engine is also a high-revving engine, like the BMW's. Floor it (even in Drive) and the tachometer will swing close to 7,000 RPM and feel (and sound) good doing it, too.

It's just a shame that Cadillac decided not to offer the same six-speed manual transmission that's available in the CTS sedan in the CTS wagon given the aggressive/performance theme of the CTS. This is the one area where the BMW wagon has an edge over the Caddy as a sportwagon.

The car's handling/grip/ride, however, cannot be faulted. It will corner without squeal or lean or feeling unwell at very high speeds. My local "test track" is Bent Mountain road, a series of hairpins and sweepers that runs up about 1,000 feet in elevation from the valley to the top in about two miles of serious fun - in the right car. The CTS wagon is such a car.

These curves, posted at 35 mph, can be taken at 60 with no real worries other than the possibility of a cop coming down the mountain the other way. My test car had the optional FE3 performance suspension, which includes limited slip axle, 19-inch rims and 45-series ZR-rated summer tires. The FE3 package also includes sharper suspension settings and larger four-wheel-disc brakes. Along with the 304 hp engine, smartly shifting six-speed automatic and 3.42 rear axle ratio, it is a formidable machine.

STYLING & UTILITY

The funny things is, BMWs used to have the crisp styling - and now they're kind of blobby looking, with cottage cheesy rear ends and awkward styling elements - while Cadillac has emerged as the brand defined by its sharp lines and well-packaged, coherent styling.

The CTS wagon has the same basic nose and front end as the sedan but is defined by its dramatically styled aft section, especially the unusually shaped rear side glass, "dummy" C pillar and fixed mini-sized quarter-window. Take a look at the complex shapes and lines; individually, they seem unrelated but when you step back and view it as a whole, it all comes together, giving the CTS a car-show/concept look that is really wild. Ditto the rear section and liftgate, with its relatively small glass section flanked on either side by two huge LED brake/tail-lights that taper upward all the way to the roofline and which are shaped to echo the proud fins on classic '50s and '60s-era Caddys.

The cabin is likewise uber-modern and beautifully finished, with satin-nickle trim plates and high-quality Sapele Pommele wood inserts. It's a neat-looking and inviting space, contemporary but not austere. The only downside is the CTS gives up some passenger (and cargo) room for the sake of its avante-garde good looks. The stodgier BMW 3-Series wagon, for example, has a bit more total cargo capacity (61 cubic feet vs. 58 for the Caddy). But the upside is the Caddy's got a bit more rear seat head and legroom - about half to three quarters of an inch in each category. That may not sound like much, but if it means the difference between having some air between your head and the car's ceiling, it's the difference between usable back seats and not usable back seats.

The CTS wagon easily beats the A4 on cargo capacity (51 cubic feet) though (surprisingly) the physically smaller (outside) Audi is roomier for passengers inside than either the CTS wagon or the BMW 328i. It has 40.4 inches of front seat headroom and 38.2 inches of rear seat headroom.

The BMW 5-Series wagon and A6 Avant have roughly the same front and back seat head/legroom - and almost exactly the same total cargo capacity (58 cubic feet for the BMW, 59 cubic feet for the Audi). But as with the power/performance issue, to get "par" in these brands, you have to pay through the nose. The CTS is priced much closer to the the 3-Series and A4 Avant than it is to the 535i and A6 Avant - both of which start within striking distance of $60,000 vs. under $40k for the Cadillac. You are literally getting more for your money with the CTS.

QUALITY & SAFETY

Cadillac has come back - and pulled dead even with the best that Europe and Japan have to offer. There may be reasons not to buy a new CTS (wagon or sedan) but they have nothing to do with issues of build quality, fit and finish or materials and workmanship. This is a magnificently put-together car.

Cadillac's confidence in its renewed excellence shows through in the CTS wagon's standard four year/50,000 mile comprehensive and five year/100,000 mile warranty coverage - which is stronger than BMW and Audi offer (four years/50,000 mile basic and four years/50,000 miles on the powertrain).

Lexus doesn't sell a sportwagon, but for perspective, the drivetrain warranty on the much-vaunted ES350 is six years/70,000 miles. Mercedes-Benz is apparently even less confident in the long-term durability of its products. The E-Class wagon (which is larger than the CTS wagon, not really a sportwagon and also priced at $57k to start, so there's no direct comparison, vehicle to vehicle) comes with a rather skimpy four-year/50,000 mile drivetrain warranty.

As far as safety equipment, the CTS wagon comes with all the gear (ABS, side-impact and curtain air bags, traction and stability control) that has become as much a given in a luxury car as air conditioning is in family cars - plus GM's OnStar system, with one year's subscription included. OnStar can summon police and EMS to a crash scene automatically, even if you are not conscious. A transponder in the vehicle lets the OnStar network locate the car wherever it is. Some may not like the Big Brother-ish aspects of OnStar but there's no denying the help it can provide in an emergency.

THE BOTTOM LINE

There are only a few luxury wagons on the market - even fewer real-deal sportwagons that are as fun to drive as they are useful. The CTS wagon is easily the standout among them, if you want style and driving excitement along with room for a couple of labrador retrievers in the back - for potentially a lot less money than BMW or Audi are demanding for a similar powerful/similarly sizable machine.

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2010 Paris Auto Show Preview | 2011 Audi A7 Sportback Video | Spied: The 2013 Ford Fusion and Lincoln MKZ | Driven: 2011 Lincoln MKX

2010 Paris Auto Show Preview

Preview: Top 10 Cars at the 2010 Paris Auto Show
Expect these cars to shine in the City of Light.

The 2010 Paris Auto Show represents the beginning of auto show season, the first chance for automakers around the world to pull the dust covers off wild concepts and production cars.

Open to the public from October 2-17 (with media previews scheduled September 31 and October 1) this year's show-stoppers include everything from tiny electric-powered city-cars, to a multi-million dollar supercar boasting 1200 bhp.

We've chosen the ten most significant and, at times, completely outrageous vehicles set to debut. Whether your taste runs to basic economical transport — and purple interiors — or seductive high performance sports cars, there is something for everyone at this year's Paris Auto Show.

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The Future of Viper | Nissan GT-R Egoist | 2012 Honda Civic Coupe Spy Shots | Strange New Car Features

The Future of Viper | Nissan GT-R Egoist | 2012 Honda Civic Coupe Spy Shots | Strange New Car Features

The Future of Viper What lies up the road for America's meanest supercar? The next Viper will use the same 8.4-liter V-10 making 600 horsepower. There's nothing wrong with this, especially since the pushrod engine is apparently capable, with reasonable modification, of meeting emissions requirements up to 2018. The simple addition of direct injection could see power output rise to 700 bhp. Ilmor Marine sells the engine in 650-bhp and 725-bhp configurations, built at the Viper factory. Interestingly, Ilmor is still selling the engine even though the Viper plant is closed. Could it be the Ilmor folks know that Viper production will start up again before they run out of engines? It's a safe bet they do.
2010 Chevrolet Corvette Grand Sport vs. 2011 Ford Shelby GT500 Can a muscled-up Mustang hang with America's sports car? Photos >> Spied! 2012 Honda Civic Coupe The 2012 Honda Civic will stick with its proven fun formula, and still be available as an Si! Spy Photos >> The Strangest Car Features What were the automakers thinking when they added these not-so-standard features? First Look: 2011 Nissan GT-R Egoist A strange name, for sure, but the Egoist is lighter and faster than a stock GT-R!

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2010 Toyota Tundra Reviews

Reviewing the 2010 Toyota Tundra, Three years ago, most industry experts thought the Big Three were going to lose control of the last market segment they still dominated - large trucks - to the Japanese up-and-comers.

By next year, the only Japanese automaker still in the full-size truck business will be Toyota.

Nissan has cancelled the Titan - for all practical purposes, anyhow. (The 2011 model will be a re-badged Dodge Ram.) It seems very likely that Honda will retire the doing-poorly Ridgeline (which isn't really a truck anyhow.)

That leaves the Toyota Tundra as the proverbial Last Man Standing - and the only Japanese-brand alternative to a Ford F-150, Chevy Silverado or Dodge Ram 1500. All three of the Big Three's big trucks have recently been updated, too - while the 2010 Tundra's to a great extent the same truck it was back in 2007.But the Tundra still has a few strong cards left to play, so don't dismiss it before you've taken a moment to consider it.

WHAT IT IS

The Tundra is Toyota's full-size, 1500-series pick-up. It is available in regular cab (two seats, two doors), crew cab (Four seats, two standard-sized doors and two smaller rear doors) and CrewMax (four seats and four full-size doors) bodystyles, with various bed lengths, V-6 or V-8 engines and 2WD or 4WD.Base price is $23,455 for a base model regular cab with V-6 and 2WD. A top-of-the-line Crew Max Limited with 5.7 liter V-8 and 4WD runs $42,455.

WHAT'S NEW FOR 2010

Though it looks the same as last year's Tundra, there are several key upgrades to the 2010 model intended to keep it competitive with the Big Three's trucks. Chief among these is a new mid-range 4.6 liter, 310 hp V-8 that replaces the previous 4.7 liter, 271 hp V-8. This new engine is now standard on all but base/2WD Tundras. Another interesting new feature for 2010 is a vertical up-and-down power back window. There's also a Lexus-like Platinum package that's similar to the Cowboy Cadillac Ford F-150 King Ranch.

WHAT'S GOOD

The Tundra is a Hoss. I'm 6 ft 3 and 210 pounds and the thing makes me feel small. Most available rear seat space (in CrewMax configuration) of any 1500-series truck on the market

Very strong mid-range 4.6 V-8 makes it (usually) not necessary to step up to the (more expensive) 5.7 liter V-8.

Base 236 hp V-6 is plenty adequate for work-truck use. (Dodge Ram 1500's isn't. Neither is the Silverado's.)

Impressive and near-class-leading (10,400 lbs.) maximum tow rating. Tough, rugged leaf-spring rear suspension.

WHAT'S NOT SO GOOD

It's a Hoss. So huge-feeling it can be intimidating to drive, especially for people who aren't well over six feet tall and 200-plus pounds.

Not the greatest interior layout. Some controls/displays are hard to see/operate.

Leaf spring rear suspension gives a bouncier ride than coil-spring rear suspension in competitors like the new Ram 1500.

Base model is priced about $2,800 higher than base model Dodge Ram 1500 ($20,610), about $2,600 higher than base model Chevy Silverado ($20,850), and about $1,600 higher than an equivalent base model Ford F-truck ($21,820).

UNDER THE HOOD

Base model/2WD Tundras come with a 4.0 liter, 236 hp V-6 and five-speed automatic. This engine really shines compared with the much-less-powerful (and arguably, underpowered) 4.3 liter, 195 hp V-6 that comes in base model Silverados. It's also stronger (and larger) than the Ram 1500's base 3.7 liter, 215 V-6.

And it's nearly as strong as the 4.6 liter, 248 hp V-8 that's standard in the Ford F-150.

Another bright spot is the new-for-2010 4.6 liter V-8 that's standard in all but the base/work truckTundras (and all 4WD-equipped models). Its 310 hp rating places it above the F-150's optional 292 hp 4.6 V-8 (and only 10 hp behind the F-truck's strongest available engine, the 5.4 liter, 320 hp V-8).

The Tundra's new 4.7 V-8 also beats out the Silverado's mid-range 4.8 liter, 295 hp V-8 - and nearly matches the Silverado's next-up 5.3 liter, 315 hp V-8.

It exactly matches the Ram 1500's mid-range 4.7 liter/310 hp V-8.

Zero to 60 with this engine is is just under 8 seconds. It also gets about two miles-per-gallon better gas mileage than the previous 4.7 liter V-8. A six-speed automatic comes with the 4.6 liter V-8.

The Tundra's optional, top-of-the-line engine is a 5.7 liter, 381 hp V-8 that pushes the 0-60 time down to about 7 seconds flat. That is amazing hustle for a full-size truck.

The Tundra's 5.7 V-8 is much stronger than the strongest engine available in the Ford F-150 (5.4 liters, 320 hp) and roughly matches the Dodge Ram 1500's 5.7 liter Hemi V-8 (390 hp).

The Chevy Silverado's optionally available 6.2 liter, 403 hp V-8 is, however, still the King of the Hill as far as maximum horsepower goes.

But the Tundra nonetheless manages to edge out the Chevy on maximum tow capability: 10,800 lbs. vs. 10,700 lbs. It also beats the just-redesigned Ram 1500 by several hundred pounds (10,250 lbs. max).

Ford beats them all, though - with a Hercules-like maximum tow rating of 11,300 lbs.

ON THE ROAD

All the 1500 series trucks on the market right now drive beautifully - despite their battleship-like size and girth. Differences in ride quality/handling exist, but they're slight and in everyday driving use, they are all incredibly easy to operate, smooth and quiet.

The Tundra's steering may even seem overboosted at first, but you'll find the truck tracks right where you point it and can be driven a lot faster than you might expect without any sense that you're beginning to push your luck. On not-great roads, the simple (but tough) leaf spring rear suspension can get a little bouncy, but it's not severe enough in my opinion to wish for the (lighter duty) coils found in competitors like the Ram 1500.

The really noticeable differences mostly come down to acceleration and ergonomics.

On acceleration, the Tundra is among the best available. Even its standard V-6 has enough oats to pull the truck along at a respectable clip, without straining. In this respect, it is much superior to the Chevy Silverado (in base form, equipped with the Mr. Punyverse 195 hp V-6).

This is one area where the Tundra's higher base price is objectively justified. The Chevy (and the Dodge) may cost less, but you really almost have to upgrade to one of their optional engines to make the serviceable. The Tundra's new, mid-range 4.6 liter V-8 is also a winner.

I spent a week with one, using the truck in typical "country" fashion - hauling stuff, going up and down the mountain (elevation change of about 1,200 feet in the course of about three miles). It felt much more confident than the F-150, which has the weakest V-8s of all current half-ton trucks.

The ony reason, in fact, I could come up with to buy the Tundra's larger, top-of-the-line 5.7 liter V-8 would be for the maximum towing capacity. The 5.7, in addition to the 70-something hp boost, also comes standard with a tow-intended 4.30 rear axle ratio. With the 4.6 engine, the axle ratio is either 3.90 or 4.10.

But unless you really need to pull 10,000-plus pounds (or want to race Mustangs!) the 4.6 is probably the better choice. On ergonomics, though, the Tundra has some issues.

Several key controls are awkwardly placed or hard to see. For example, the radio's dial indicator is often unreadable during high-sun afternoons. And the knobs are waaaaay over to the right and hard to reach while driving - even for a gangly six-footer like me, with much-longer-than-average arms. This makes it almost-essential to pay extra for the available steering wheel-mounted secondary controls.

The rotary control knobs for the 4WD settings and fan, meanwhile, are large and easy to operate even with a glove on (good) but both are partially hidden by the huge column shift stalk (bad). This is also where Toyota mounts the up and down buttons for the six-speed automatic's manual shift control. You have to drive one-handed to operate this, which isn't the hot ticket.

The newer/more recently updated Silverado, F-truck and Ram 1500 are noticeably more user-friendly in terms of their interior layouts - and overall, less intimidating to drive. It may be sexist and un-PC to say this, but you need to know: If you're a man, the Tundra's ergonomic issues, which magnify its hugeness, probably won't bug you.

But your wife/girlfriend/daughter may not like it - which will bug you, eventually.

AT THE CURB

The Tundra's probably the least boxy big truck on the market - the bed excepted. This part of the Tundra has the same high-walled, industrial-scale look that first appeared on the Super Duty F-truck a couple of years ago. The upside is your cargo's more secure. The downside is that it can be hard to get to (or even see) that cargo if you're not well over six feet tall yourself. Like other current half-tons, the Tundra's has a useful moveable tie-down system that's nice to have for securing ATVs, motorcycles and other odd-sized stuff.

My tested Tundra crew cab (two standard doors, two smaller rear doors) felt like it had more square footage than the first floor of our house. Three-across riding is possible up front (an upside to the pull-down column shifter) and if not, the center section folds down to become a useful warren of storage compartments. Flip it forward to reveal a large hidden compartment underneath that's big enough to easily swallow a laptop.

Sport buckets (with center console) are also available, if you prefer that layout.

The back seats in the crew cab are easy to get into and comfortable to be in, with no shortage of legroom - but if you want serious real estate, the CrewMax (four full-size doors) goes all the way, with an incredible 44.5 inches of backseat legroom vs. 34.7 for the regular crew cab. That's about two inches more legroom for stretching out than you'd get in a Mercedes-Benz S600 or extended wheelbase (limousine) Audi A8L or Lexus LS600L! No other half-ton truck on the market can match it.

This hugeness makes the power-actuated vertical rear window and back-up camera (display in the rearview mirror) must-have features, though.Other useful features include available folding tow mirrors, Cold Weather and TRD Off-Road Packages with M/S rated tires, skid plates and HD suspension.

Two things not there that would be nice (and which the competition offers) are a built-in trailer brake and a more comprehensive gauge package with, for instance, a temperature gauge for the automatic transmission. If you tow (especially up steep grades) having one of these can save you a $2,500 early tranny replacement.

Another thing I'm not a big fan of is the electronic limited slip axle. It uses the ABS to limit wheelspin, not a mechanical locking differential. If the ABS goes out, so does your "posi" rear.

THE REST

In terms of occupant protection in a crash, a large truck such as the Tundra is just about the safest place to be. The sheer massiveness of the vehicle - as well as the protection afforded by a girder-like frame and the fact that the thing rides higher up off the ground than most other vehicles - is an inherent advantage. Toss in multiple air bags (including standard driver's knee air bag and full-length curtain air bags) and it's hard to get hurt inside one of these vaults on wheels.

Quality-wise, the upside is the 2010 Tundra is largely the same as it was in 2007. This leaves a an objective, real-world record of excellent durability and reliability to refer to. We know it's a good, solid truck. The downside is the truck is aging and isn't the class leader in most key areas that it was three years ago. The new F-truck (and the even newer Ram 1500) present stiff competition. When the next-gen. Tundra comes out in a year or so, the re-sale value of the of the current model is likely to drop.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Though it's no longer the obvious Number One, it's still a strong contender - especially when armed with the excellent 310 hp 4.6 liter V-8. And if you need rear seat lebensraum, there's still nothing else that can touch it.

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2011 Acura Active Sound Control

Acura Active Sound Control: In recent years automakers have developed "intelligent" cruise control that automatically adjusts vehicle speed for changing traffic conditions - and self-adjusting suspension systems that continuously fine-tune ride quality for changing road conditions. Now Acura has developed an audio system that "listens" to the environment inside the cabin and adjust its output frequencies to cancel out unwanted exterior noises - literally fighting sound with sound.

The car's interior is fitted with small microphones that register unwanted noise, such as the sounds emanating from the engine compartment under hard acceleration. This, in turn, triggers the system to emit precisely timed reverse-phase audio signals through the speakers, which renders the unwanted noise frequencies less audible to human ears.

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Autos: Pros and Cons of Alternative Fuels

Pros and Cons of Alternative Fuels, At the dawn of the automobile age, gasoline was the up and coming "alternative fuel" - vying with electric batteries and steam power. Gas ultimately won out, of course. But now that we're running low on unleaded - or at the very least, getting sick of paying $3 per gallon for it - a variety of 21st century alternatives to gasoline are entering the pipeline.

These include:

* E85/ethanol - Essentially, alcohol created from vegetable matter and mixed with gasoline or used undiluted and "straight up." Most of the "gas" sold in America today is actually only 90 percent gasoline; the remaining 10 percent is ethanol. No special modifications to the vehicle are needed (although older cars with carburetors instead of fuel injection - mostly, models built before the mid-1980s - may need to be adjusted slightly to compensate for the high alcohol content of modern "gas").

E85 is 85 percent ethanol, 15 percent gasoline. GM and Ford both offer E85 compatible new cars and trucks designed to safely use this fuel (they can also run on regular gas when E85 is not available; however, you should never use E85 fuel in a standard vehicle not made to operate on E85).

The advantages of ethanol-laced gas and E85 include lower emissions of unburned hydrocarbons (which form the precursors of smog) as well as the potential for a significant reduction in U.S. dependence on non-renewable, petroleum-based fuels such as gasoline. Most vehicles can be set up to operate on E85 at relatively low cost and there is no loss of performance or power. Another nice thing about E85 fuel is that it degrades quickly in water and therefore presents a much lower risk to the environment than an oil or gasoline spill. (See http://www.e85fuel.com/index.php to learn more about E85 and ethanol fuels.)

* Biodiesel - Vegetable oil can cook your fries as well as power the vehicle that gets you to the drive-thru. An interesting fact of history is that diesel engines were originally designed to run on vegetable oil - peanut and linseed oil - not petroleum-based diesel fuel. And they can run on vegetable oil just as well today, too.

Biodiesel is not the same as raw (unprocessed) or waste vegetable oil, the stuff fast food joints use to cook with (though that can be run in diesel engines, too). It is, however, made from vegetable oil - with its chief advantage being that it can be used in any compression-ignition (diesel) engine with little or no modification necessary (the use of unprocessed raw vegetable oil in diesels requires pre-heaters and other fuel system upgrades). Biodiesel is also less toxic than table salt -- and biodegrades as fast as sugar.

* Electricity - Electric cars were first sold almost 100 years ago and are making a comeback today with models like the Chevy Volt and Nissan Leaf, among others.

The idea of eliminating combustion engines entirely has always had tremendous appeal. However, engineers have not yet overcome the problems of high up-front costs (the 2011 Chevy Volt has a sticker price of $41,000), limited range (the 2011 Nissan Leaf can go about 100 miles before its batteries need to recharged), extended recharge times (several hours/overnight) and relatively poor performance compared with gas-powered (or diesel) vehicles.

There are also environmental issues remaining to be dealt with - including the storage/recycling of hundreds of pounds of toxic/caustic materials in the battery packs and the emissions produced by the coal and oil-fired powerplants that produce the electricity used to charge those battery packs.

Still, the latest crop of electric cars are light-years improved over earlier efforts. The Volt, for example, is capable of carrying a family of four (instead of just two people, like the 1990s-era GM EV-1) and because it carries its own on-board generator (a small gas engine that isn't connected to the drive wheels) the Volt has an operating range more than three times as long as the old EV-1's.

* Hydrogen/fuel cells - This technology uses a fuel cell to generate electricity, with liquid hydrogen as the fuel. The electricity produced by the catalytic reaction in the fuel cell powers electric motors, which propel the car. Unlike traditional electric cars, which have to be plugged in to recharge their batteries, a fuel cell vehicle creates its own electricity and so is independent of charging stations.

Hydrogen is an abundant element and the energy produced by a fuel cell is 100 percent free of harmful byproducts (water is the primary "emission"). However, practical problems remain to be overcome - the biggest obstacles being the economical mass production of pure hydrogen and the second being the infrastructure (pipelines, refueling facilities, etc.) necessary to get the hydrogen to end users safely and efficiently. But several automakers - including General Motors and Honda - have prototype fuel cell vehicles under development and we may see a breakthrough sometime during the next 5-10 years or so. (see http://www.eere.energy.gov/hydrogena...ls/basics.html for more information about fuel cells.)

* Compressed Natural Gas - Like hybrid gas-electric vehicles, the use of compressed natural gas (CNG) is seen as a workable intermediate step between conventional gas-burning cars and a future form of propulsion which doesn't use gasoline at all (such as a fuel cell or electric car). The U.S. has vast reserves of clean-burning Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) and it is relatively easy to modify a conventional car engine to operate on this fuel. In addition, some of the necessary infrastructure (pipelines, etc.) to get CNG to end users is already in place - because CNG has long been in use for home heating purposes and so on.

GM, Ford and Chrysler have been building CNG-capable cars and trucks for several years - and offering them for sale to both private individuals and municipal fleets. The cost per car is roughly $1,500-$4,000 more than an equivalent , gas-only version of the same vehicle.

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