Monday, October 11, 2010

Cars (and Concepts) That Deserved to Be Crushed

Cars (and Concepts) That Deserved to Be Crushed
Cars (and Concepts) That Deserved to Be Crushed, Automotive good ideas gone bad range far and wide, whether it's a classic like the exploding Pintos of the early '70s - or a late model gem like the Pontiac Aztek.


Here are ten epic failures that will be remembered for as long as the warranty claims (and class-action lawsuits) linger:

* The entire American Motors Corp. (AMC) lineup - From dreadful dreadnoughts like the malformed Matador to demented detritus like the Gremlin and Pacer, no other automaker ever managed to build such a seemingly endless conga line of bizarre, poorly conceived (and often, poorly built) cars within such a short span of time (from the late 1960s to the early-mid 1970s). Only bankruptcy eventually succeeded in stopping the madness.

* Chrysler's "lean burn" engines - While Honda was developing highly efficient combustion chambers to lower engine emissions via engineering advances (the Compound Cortex Combustion Chamber, or CVCC cylinder head used in the first-generation Civics in the mid-70s) which allowed the cars to meet federal exhaust emissions standards without catalytic converters, Chrysler was duct-taping its obsolete V-8s with leaned-out carburetors that mainly made them even harder to start than they were before - and prone to stalling in the middle of busy intersections. The added plus was wimpy performance and terrible gas mileage.

Now you know why "rich, Corinthian leather" (and Ricardo Montalban) never made a comeback.

* General Motors' diesel V-8 - Imagine a luxury car that was both slow and inefficient as well as prone to early and catastrophic engine failures and you have a taste of the bitter flavor that was the diesel-powered Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs of the late '70s and early '80s. These "diesel" engines were in fact converted gas engines, which lacked the strength to deal with the high-compression combustion of diesel operation.

The resultant debacle not only soured an entire country on the otherwise perfectly sound concept (real diesel engines), it helped hustle Oldsmobile to the boneyard of automotive has-beens - and nearly killed off Cadillac, too.

* The Sterling - Here's an oldie but still a stinkie. Japanese automakers rarely make big-time mistakes, but this was pretty close. Back in the late 1980s, in collusion with British car-maker Land Rover, Acura Legends were re-sold as "British" Sterling 825s and 827s. The alliance was as enduring as the Hitler-Stalin non-aggression pact - and just as awkward. Parts for these cars - especially interior pieces - are all but impossible to find. Dealer support is nonexistent. Resale values are lower than a well-worn Yugo.

If Truman had had another bomb left to drop, the childhood home of the dude who would grow up to create Sterling would have been a worthy target.

* Pontiac Fiero - A great idea ruined by upper management cheapskates, who thought it would be an amusing con to use Chevette-sourced underthings (front suspension, engine) in a car that looked sporty but couldn't live up to its billing. First-year sales were great - until the word got out. They then nose-dived like the Concorde, forcing the car's cancellation just four years after it came out and just in time to hand over the entire market for a car of this type to Mazda, which brought out the Miata a year after the Fiero was sent to the crusher.

* "Cab forward" design - Remember? When Chrysler Corp. hawked this layout in the '90s, it was supposed to be an automotive Great Leap Forward. But after a succession of belly-flops ranging from the luckless LHS to the Dodge not-so-Intrepid, the whole works was discretely packed up and shipped off the land of unwanted toys. Chrysler reverted back to front-engine/rear-drive ("cab normal") vehicles like the current 300 series and Charger - which, not surprisingly, actually sell well.

* Geo - Circa Ronald Reagn's first term, and desperate to rehabilitate its image, GM figured the only way to get people to consider buying a GM small car was by giving their crappy little economy cars a new name. Hence the "Geo" nameplate. Sold alongside Chevrolets, some Geos were ok (at least, the ones like the Prizm that were just re-badged Toyotas). But others were far from fabulous, notably the depressing three-cylinder Metro and the sad-sack Storm "sports coupe" - both of which may sometimes still be glimpsed on seedy used car lots in rural backwaters to this very day.

* The "new" GTO - The Holden (GM's Australian subsidiary) Monaro was a perfectly good car - powerful as well as fine-handling. But it was neither a Pontiac nor a GTO. Tacking on the badges didn't make it so.

It didn't help that the resurrected "GTO" was blandly styled (it looked a lot like a hot-rodded Cavalier) and close to Corvette expensive - making it all but impossible for even the handful of rednecks who might have wanted one to be able to afford one.

* Firestone's Wilderness A/T tires - Mix marginally competent drivers, top-heavy SUVs, high-speed driving and defective tires - and let the barrel-rolling (and endless litigation) begin! This late 1990s debacle all-but-ruined the reputation of what had been the country's best-selling SUV - the Explorer - even though the root cause of the problem had more to do with improper use and sketchy tires than with the "Exploder" itself.

* Chevy SSR - What's heavy, ugly, top-heavy and clunky? No, it's not your mother-in-law. It's the SSR, or Super Sport Retractable hardtop. Blechh! GM built this Frankenstinian atrocity for a few years in the early-mid 2000s. It looked like a '40s pick-up and had some interesting features - including a "torque-o-meter" gauge to let you know how much power the huge, Corvette sourced V-8 was putting out. But like the even more execrable PLymouth Prowler, it was a fake hot rod - a factory-built, store-bought Guidomobile for guys who want to be seen as sporty car-crafter types but who probably couldn't find the dipstick on a dare. With a base price of almost $50,000 it was the perfect accompaniment to a tract-home McMansion.

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Reviewing the 2010 Toyota Corolla


Reviewing the 2010 Toyota Corolla, Ok, it's nothing much to look at - and let's be honest, nothing special to drive, either. But the Toyota Corolla has the one thing that matters most to literally millions of consumers: a reputation for being the best-built, most long-haul reliable economy sled on the road. And that's no small thing.


WHAT IT IS

The Corolla is Toyota's entry-level economy sedan. It's also the best-selling car of all time, eclipsing both the VW Beetle (old model) and the Model T Ford.

Prices run from $15,450 for a base model with 1.8 liter engine and manual transmission to $20,150 for the sporty XRS with larger 2.4 liter engine and automatic transmission.

It competes against other compact economy sedans like the Ford Fiesta, Hyundai Accent and Honda Civic, among others.

WHAT'S NEW FOR 2010

Stability control is now standard equipment on all Corollas.

WHAT'S GOOD

Bulletproof reputation; historically high resale values. Competent all around. Roomy, comfortable interior - especially the back seats. 35 mpgs on the highway.

WHAT'S NOT SO GOOD

You pay more up front for those higher down the road resale values. Mediocre warranty coverage. Not much in the way of personality; a transportation appliance.

UNDER THE HOOD

The Corolla is intended to be an economy car more than anything else, so it comes standard with an efficiency-minded 1.8 liter engine that produces 132 hp. This engine is available with either a five-speed manual transmission or (optionally) a four-speed automatic.

The little Toyota takes just over 10 seconds flat to get to 60 mph, about the same as a Prius hybrid.

Gas mileage is very good: EPA rates the Corolla at 26 mpg in city driving and 35 mpg on the highway.

An optional 2.4 liter, 158 hp engine is available as part of an XRS sport package. This engine also comes with either a five-speed manual transmission or an automatic (a five-speed, upgraded over the base car's four-speed).

The Corolla XRS gets to 60 mph about a second sooner, but you pay a price at the pump (as well as up front) for the improved performance: EPA rates the XRS Corolla at 22 mpg city and 30 mpg highway.

ON THE ROAD

One of the reasons the Corolla's so popular is its exceptionally good fuel economy. You may actually do better than the EPA ratings. I did.

First day I had the car, I drove it from my house to a hiking trailhead about 35 miles distant - and back. The gas gauge hadn't budged from "full" by the time I got home. It still read "full" after another, similar out and back trip. By mid-week, I had put close to 200 miles on the car and the gauge read just under three-quarters full. And I do not drive gently.

If you do drive gently, close to 40 mpg should be possible in this car - which is very close to what a Honda Insight (or a Toyota Prius) hybrid returns in average, real-world driving. But the Corolla costs eight to ten grand less to buy - which works out to five-six years of "free" gas - plus it's got a simple, reliable conventional four-cylinder engine that should have 200,000 miles or more of reliable service in it - vs. the hybrid's complex, expensive electrical systems (and battery) that will likely require wallet-draining service long before 200,000 miles rolls around.

Ok, it's not as precise-handling as a Honda Civic or a VW Golf. Most Corolla buyers won't notice or care. It steers, handles and stops predictably, easily and comfortably. That's really all that matters to most potential buyers.

The fifteen-inch steel wheels and all-season tires give a quiet, smooth ride and those steel wheels will last forever (unlike easily damaged alloy rims) while the all-season rubber should take you 40,000 miles or more before it's time for a fresh set.

If you want a bit more zip, there's an S package that adds 16-inch wheels, plus firmer suspension settings; or you can go up to the XRS, with its larger engine.

But the as-it-sits base trim Corolla is the one that makes the most sense, since it's not trying to be something it really isn't.

There are no surprises here - just a good, solid, placid little sedan that gets you where you want to go without any hassles or excess expense.

AT THE CURB

Corollas are everywhere - so no one's going to notice your unless you give it a flame paint job or tack a huge wing on the trunk. But the car's conservative styling has staying power. It takes a long time for a Corolla to look old, even when it is. Toyota changes the exterior and interior appearance of the Corolla only gradually with each successive generation - along evolutionary lines. This may be one of the factors behind the car's impressive retention of its value. Three or four year old Corollas routinely sell for 70-80 percent of their MSRP, brand new.

Five years from now, your 2010 Corolla won't look like yesterday's bad idea.

Another plus: Though the Corolla is classified as a "compact," it is much roomier than you might expect.

It has a pretty amazing 41.7 inches of front seat legroom - which for comparison exactly matches the front seat legroom in the mid-size 2010 Buick LaCrosse I recently test drove. And how about this: The Corolla has more rear seat legroom (36.3 inches) than a Lexus ES350 (35.9 inches)! It really can seat five people - comfortably.

I have driven several other compact sedans that advertise five-pasenger capacity but really can't carry more than two adults (up front) and maybe a couple of kids in the back.

The trunk is on the small side (12.3 cubic feet) but with so much room in the cabin, this car can take on a lot more than you might think.

Up front, there's a dual door glovebox, tilt and telescoping wheel (unusual in an entry-level car, even today) and a handsome, functionally laid-out dash with everything you need and nothing you don't. Well, ok - there's that 160 mph speedometer... .

THE REST

There are several lower-priced, very similar cars out there - including the $13,645 Hyundai Accent Sedan, the $13,320 Ford Fiesta and the barely $10k Nissan Versa 1.6, among others. These cars can beat the Corolla on price (Versa) or fuel efficiency (Fiesta), spunkiness (Scion xD), driving zip (Mazda3) or even features-for-the-dollar (Kia Forte). But none of these Johhny-come-latelys has the history - and thus, the buyer confidence - enjoyed by the best-selling Corolla.

Also keep in mind that while some of the competition is lower-priced starting out , in many cases the price difference equalizes when you factor in the cost of almost-essential optional extras such as air conditioning and an MP3-playing stereo - both items standard in the $15,450 base model Corolla.

The only major accessories not included in the base car's price are power windows and door locks, which do come standard in the slightly more expensive ($16,850) LE.

All Corolla's standard ABS, side-impact air bags, full-length curtain air bags, traction/stability control and anti-whiplash "active" headrests.

The warranty coverage isn't the greatest; three years/36,000 miles for the whole car and five years/60,000 miles for the powertrain. Of course, competitors like Kia and Hyunda have been forced to offer better warranty coverage precisely because of the Toyota's sterling reputation.

And we really won't know for sure how good those other cars are until about ten years from now. Look around today and you'll see a lot of older Corollas running around. Will that be true of the other makes with better warranties than today's Toyota circa 2020?

Buyer's note: Toyota will redesign this car for 2011, so there are probably some great deals to be had on the remaining inventory of 2010s.

THE BOTTOM LINE

You can buy something that costs less, has more stuff, looks wilder - or that's more entertaining to drive. But there's still nothing out there quite as Blue Chip-solid as the Corolla.

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Decrypting Your Tires


Decrypting Your Tires, Can you read a sidewall? What do all those numbers (and letters) really mean? Here's a short primer on tires - and tire-related terminology - that should help you get to know your four friends a bit more intimitately:


* Contact Patch As your tires rotate, only a portion of the total tread is actually in contact with the ground at any given moment. This is known as the contact patch. Think of it as your tire's "footprint." Sport/performance-type tires are characterized by their wider footprint - more tread is in contact with the ground - which provides extra grip, especially during hard acceleration on dry pavement and during high-speed cornering.

* Treadwear indicators These are narrow bands built into the tread during manufacturing that begin to show when only 1/16 of the tire's tread remains. Also called wear bars, treadware indicators are there to provide an obvious visual warning that it's time to shop for new tires.

* Speed ratings An alpha-numeric symbol you'll find on your tire's sidewall that tells you the maximum sustained speed the tire is capable of safely handling. An H-rated tire, for example, is built to be safe for continuous operation at speeds up to 130 mph. Most current model year family-type cars have S (112 mph) or T (118 mph) speed ratings. High performance cars often have tires with a V (149 mph) or ZR (in excess of 149 mph) speed rating. A few ultra-performance cars have W (168 mph) and even Y (186 mph) speed-rated tires. High-speed tires usually also provide better braking and handling performance, although they will tend to wear faster, too.

* Maximum cold inflation load limit This refers to the maximum load that can be carried in a given vehicle with a given type of tires - and the maximum air pressure needed to support that load. In your vehicle's owner's manual, you should be able to find the recommended cold inflation load limit. It's important not to exceed the load limit (or over or under-inflate the tires) as this can lead to stability/handling problems and even tire failure. Always check tire pressure "cold." Driving creates friction which creates heat; as the tires warm up, the air inside expands, increasing the pressure. Measuring air pressure after driving can give a false reading; you may actually be driving around on under-inflated tires.

* Load index This number corresponds to the load carrying capacity of the tire. The higher the number, the higher the load it can safely handle. As an example, a tire with a load index of 89 can safely handle 1,279 pounds - while a tire with a load rating of 100 can safely handle as much as 1,764 pounds. It's important to stick with tires that have at least the same load rating as the tires that came originally with the vehicle - especially if it's a truck used to haul heavy loads or pull a trailer. It's ok to go with a tire that has a higher load rating than the original tires; just be careful to avoid tires with a lower load rating than specified for your vehicle, even if they are less expensive. Saving a few bucks on tires is not worth risking an accident caused by tire failure.

* Aspect ratio This technical-sounding term refers to the relationship between the width of a tire and the height of the tire's sidewall. High-performance "low profile" tires have "low aspect ratios" - meaning their sidewalls are short relative to their width. This design provides extra stiffness and thus better high-speed handling and grip - but also tends to result in a firmer (and sometimes, harsh) ride. "Taller" tires, on the other hand, tend to provide a smoother ride and better traction in snow.

* Radial vs. bias-ply tire Bias-ply tires have their underlying plies laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread; radials have their plies laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. That's the technical difference. The reason radial tires are dominant today is that they help improve fuel efficiency and handling; they also tend to dissipate heat better than bias-ply tires. No modern passenger cars come with bias-ply tires these days and their use is generally not recommended. (Exception might include older/antique vehicles that originally came equipped with bias-ply tires. Some RVs also used bias-ply tires, etc.) It is very important never to mix radial and bias-ply tires; dangerously erratic handling may result.

* LT and MS tires These designations indicate "Light Truck" and "Mud/Snow" - and are commonly found on tires fitted to 4WD SUVs and pick-ups. LT-rated tires are more general purpose, built primarily for on-road use - while MS-rated tires typically have more aggressive "knobby" tread patterns designed for better off-road traction.

* Temporary Use Only Many modern cars come with "space-saver" tires which are smaller and lighter than a standard or full-size spare tire. They are designed to leave more room in the trunk and be easier for the average person to handle when a roadside tire change becomes necessary. However, they are for temporary use only - and not designed to be used for extended periods (or high-speed) driving. Your car will probably not handle (or stop) as well while the space saver tire is on; to be safe, you should keep your speed under 55 mph and avoid driving on the tire beyond what's absolutely necessary to find a repair shop where you can have your damaged tire repaired or replaced.

* Treadwear, Traction and Temperature ratings Each tire has three separate ratings for Treadwear, Traction and Temperature. Traction ratings run from AA to A to B and C - with C being the lowest on the scale. The ratings represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement under controlled testing conducted by the government. C-rated tires are marginal and should be avoided. Never buy a tire with a Traction rating that isn't at least equal to the minimum rating specified by the manufacturer of your vehicle.

Temperature ratings from A to B to C - with C being the minimum allowable for any passenger car tire. The ratings correspond to a given tire's ability to dissipate heat under load; tires with lower ratings are more prone to heat-induced failure, especially if driven at high speeds (or when overloaded). As with Traction ratings, never buy a tire with a Temperature rating that's less than specified for your vehicle.

Treadwear ratings differ from Traction and Temperature ratinsg in that they aren't a measure of a tire's built-in safety margin. Instead, these ratings - represented by a three digit number - give you an idea of the expected useful life of the tire according to government testing. A tire with a Treadwear rating of 150, for example, can be expected to last about 1.5 times as long as a tire with a Treadwear rating of 100. These are just guides, however. Your tires may last longer (or not) depending on such factors as how you drive, whether you maintain proper inflation pressure and rotate the tires per the recommendations - and so on.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Engine Oil Sludge - Is Your Car a Sludger?


Engine Oil Sludge - Is Your Car a Sludger, Sludge is a nightmare for many innocent car buyers. It's also a customer-relations disaster for several automakers, whose handling of the problem speaks loudly to tuned-in consumers. Sludge prone models sold new in 1998-2004 are still on the used car market. There have been class action lawsuit settlements, but no recalls.


As of July 2007, there are still current news reports of used car buyers whose engines froze up just days after what they thought was a bargain. Sludge is gelled oil, thickened by overheating and contaminant build-up. Sludged oil galleries in the cylinder block or head deprive moving parts of critical lubrication.

Once the oil passages are clogged, the damage is done. Motor failure is just a matter of time. Subsequent proper oil change intervals will not stop the process. This is why a previous owner's service records are so important to used car buyers. Engine oil gelling is expensive, and can happen over and over in susceptible models.

Average reported mileage at engine failure is 63k miles, with some nearly new engines freezing up with as low as 15,000 miles. Most of these were under warranty, but claims were denied. A majority of the oil sludging occurred in former rental fleet cars, and lease returns, sold to naive bargain hunters.

Extended oil change intervals had been promoted for several years in the early 1990's. But strict emissions standards and fuel mileage standards changed engine design. Starting around 1996, problems with extended drain intervals developed.

There was an attempt to bury the story, then manufacturer denial took over. Almost every car manufacturer refused warranty claims, citing improper maintenance as the reason for sludged engines.

A few people just don't maintain their cars, but they don't all purchase these same failure prone models. If oil change neglect is the main cause, the sludging should be spread across every engine type and car model.

As the cover-up continued, internet automotive forums lit up with reports of claim denials, stonewalling, and poor customer service by automakers. Toyota, Saab, Audi, and Volkswagen ultimately stepped up, extending drivetrain warranties on sludging models. Chrysler refused to extend warranty protection or expedite the claim process. For vehicles engineered prone to sludge, there really is no solution.

For oil sludge prevention try the following. Change engine oil at least as often as the "severe service" or "severe climate" interval in the owner's manual. Replace the PCV valve, basically an oil vapor separator, every 30K miles. Retain every receipt for each service or repair, making sure the vehicle identification number (VIN) and description of service performed are clearly written. If your engine has overheated, replace the oil and repair the cooling system immediately.

Car buyers must learn to shop for more than the "best deal" and "low monthly payments." Many of these sludgers were "bargains." They were sold as new cars by fat incentives, easy credit lease contracts, and rental fleet volume deals. Car buyer beware.

Car Logo

mahindraMitshubishiMercedes


















Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Reviewing the 2010 Range Rover Sport


Reviewing the 2010 Range Rover Sport, How many sport-utilities are actually "sporty"? Utility - ok. They usually have lots of room and can carry lots of stuff. Most are good in the snow (or at least, better than a car). But sporty? That's another story!

Among high-dollar SUVs, only two really qualify. One is the Porsche Cayenne; the other is the Range Rover Sport, subject of this review.

WHAT IT IS

The Range Rover Sport is - you guessed it - a sporty (and slightly smaller) version of the Range Rover, the high-end, full-size 4WD SUV built by Britain's Land Rover. It's about half a foot shorter, four inches narrower through the hips and weighs about 150 pounds less than than the regular Range Rover.

It's also a lot less expensive - $59,645 for the HSE and $73,345 for the more powerful supercharged version - vs. $78,425 for the regular (slightly larger) Range Rover and $94,275 for the supercharged version.

WHAT'S NEW FOR 2010

2010 Range Rovers (both the Sport and the regular Rover) get a larger, more powerful standard 5.0 liter V-8 as well as a new six-speed automatic transmission and several key upgrades to features and equipment, including revised automatic 4WD programs and a new (hard drive-based) GPS navigation system.

WHAT'S GOOD

The price is a steal - basically the same Range Rover for almost $20k less.

Half the price of a Benz G550 (the only other uber-premium SUV that matches the RR's cachet as well as its off-road prowess). Supercharged version is $27k less than comparably powerful Porsche Cayenne Turbo.

Acceleration now appropriate to price - and better than some of the comparably priced competition

It does handle better, is easier to park/maneuver than the standard (larger/heavier) Range Rover - while giving up nothing as far as presence/exclusivity and features/amenties. Same tremendous off-road capability, too.

WHAT'S NOT SO GOOD

Headroom's a little tight (the price you pay for the extra sportiness). Gas mileage (13 city for the non-supercharged version) limits the range of this Rover - even with a 23.3 gallon tank. It's not hard to run it dry in 200 miles of real-world driving.

Fill-ups are forbidding - even for the affluent clientele that shops Land Rovers: About $70 a pop at current prices of $3 per gallon. Way too nice to actually take off-roading - just like all the others in this segment!

UNDER THE HOOD

The 2010 Range Rover Sport is equipped with a new (larger) and much more powerful 5 liter V-8 for 2010, with or without a supercharger. Without the supercharger, the V-8 produces 375 horsepower. With it, the power jumps to 510 hp - making it on of the strongest engines on the market, period.

Porsche's $99,900 Cayenne Turbo offers a "mere" 500 hp; to top the RR's power you'll have to pony up a staggering $126,300 for the 550 hp Turbo S.

The Mercedes-Benz G500, meanwhile, carries a 5.5 liter V-8 that makes 382 hp - about the same as the RR Sport. But like the Cayenne Turbo, the G500's base price of $104,400 puts in another orbit, almost.

With the new 5 liter, 375 hp V-8, the non-supercharged '10 Range Rover Sport accelerates from 0-60 as quickly as the 2009 supercharged Range Rover sport (7.2 seconds). With the supercharged version of the 5 liter engine, the 0-60 time drops to an extremely quick 5.9 seconds - quicker than the price-comparable Cayenne GTS (6.1 seconds for $72,400) and enough to harry the enormously more expensive six-figure Cayenne Turbo (4.9 seconds).

Impressively, gas mileage for the '10 RR is actually slightly better than before, too - even though the new model has larger and much more powerful engines. The non-supercharged 5 liter V-8 manages 13 city, 18 highway vs. the old 4.4's slurpalicious 12 city, 18 highway.

Both versions of the new 5 liter V-8s are teamed up with an also-new six-speed automatic transmission and Land Rover's impressively capable full-time 4WD system, which comes with multiple settings for different types of terrain and conditions such as Mud and Snow, Sand and Rock Crawl - as well as driver-selectable 4WD Low range gearing.

Maximum trailer towing capacity is 7,700 lbs. - same as the Cayenne but more than twice the Benz G500's startlingly meager 3,500 pound rating.

ON THE ROAD

The additional power is literally transformative - and equalizing. Last year's Range Rover Sport with the 300 hp 4.4 V-8 was on the borderline of slow - at least, for a vehicle at the top of the proverbial food chain in terms of brand status and snob appeal.

It took the '09 RR Sport about 8.2 seconds to reach 60 - about what a Toyota Corolla can manage. No one who buys a nearly $60k (to start) vehicle wants to be looking at the cheesy rubber bumper of a $13k car.

The Range Rover's just to heavy for even 300 hp to be sufficient. In '09, it was almost mandatory to buy the much more expensive supercharged version - which even then wasn't actually quick, just acceptable.

So, the new 375 hp is wonderful news - and not only because it makes the standard RR quick enough and responsive enough to stand up to Porsches.

The broader point is it's no longer essential to spend the additional $14K to upgrade to the supercharged version. The 510 hp engine now truly optional - in the sense that it's something you decide to buy because you want neck-snapping speed, not merely enough reserve on tap to pull safely onto a busy road or make a fast pass.

The other aspect of the RR is that, relatively speaking, its handling is sporty - at least, much more so than the very capable off-road but horribly clumsy on-road Mercedes Gelandewagen. That thing is a beast - one of the few new SUVs you can buy that still feels as though it might roll over taking corners at normal, posted speeds. The traction/stability control system come on constantly if the G is driven even a little bit aggressively on asphalt. There's really no comparison; the RR is exponentially more civilized - yet manages to remain just as capable of hitting the dirt (or crawling over rocks) as the G550.

The Cayenne beats the RR on-road, with 911-sharp steering and excellent reflexes overall. But it's more car-like design limits what it can do off-road (at least relative to the hunky Range Rover) and if you really do need the 4WD toughness, it's advantage RR.

A wild card: The Lexus GX460 offers similarly poised on-road manners as well as beefy off-road capability, but like last year's RR, the Lexus is underpowered, with just a 301 hp 4.6 liter V-8 under its hood (and no stronger optional V-8 available).

All in all, nothing else out there can match the straight-line acceleration (even in base trim), off-road bona fides and curb appeal of the Range Rover Sport - at least, not for $59k and change.

AT THE CURB

Land Rovers have a classic upright/boxy shape you either like - or don't. The current model could be parked next to a 1970s-era model and though there are numerous small changes and upgrades, the basic profile is like father-to-son.

It's a handsome vehicle in my opinion. Not brutal-looking like the Benz G550 (a vehicle whose military origins are obvious). It stands out, too - something the plain-looking Lexus GX460 doesn't do.

The RR Sport is physically smaller than the standard Range Rover (the RR Sport's wheelbase is 108 inches vs. 113.3 for the standard RR) but visually it's hard to tell the difference unless you park them side-by-side. In no way does the RR Sport seem less substantial or downgraded.

Both the RR Sport and the regular Range Rover seat five and - surprisingly - there's actually more front and rear seat legroom in the physically smaller RR Sport than in the larger overall regular Range Rover (42.4 inches/front seat legroom vs. 38.9 inches and 37.6 inches of rear seat legroom vs. 35.5). Headroom is tighter in the Sport, though (38.5 inches up front vs. 39.3 in the regular Rover) which can be a problem for taller drivers.

Cargo capacity is almost identical: 71 cubic feet for the RR Sport vs. 74 cubic feet for the regular Range Rover.

The fact that the Sport has about the same interior/cargo room as the larger-on-the-outside standard Range Rover is pretty cool. The fact that it handles/maneuvers more nimbly as a result of its arguably better use of space even more so.

You don't really lose anything by going with the RR Sport over the regular Range Rover - except sheer bulk and perhaps a bit of off-road capability under extreme conditions (the regular RR has a bit more ground clearance and its wheel/tire packages are more dirt-oriented than the aggressive performance rubber fitted to the RR Sport).

THE REST

The Range Rover appears to be meticulously put-together but it is a very complex vehicle with extremely complex sub-systems, most notably the Terrain Sensing 4WD. Previous Land Rover models have sometimes had bugs and could sometimes be unusually expensive to maintain. That said, there's a helluva cushion built into the RR Sport's $59k starting price - which is nearly $20k less than the base price of the larger on the outside but otherwise very similar standard Range Rover. That makes up for a lot, even if some bugs do crop up.

Land Rover provides a better-than-average four-year, 50,000 mile basic/powertrain warranty, too - which roughly tracks when most typical Rang Rover buyers would be about ready to trade-in.

Safety-wise, the RR comes with "everything" - including Hill Descent Control (electronically controls throttle and brake action to prevent the RR from building up excessive speed going down a steep grade) and (in supercharged versions) an emergency braking function that will slow (and even stop) the vehicle automatically if the cruise control is on and the driver doesn't notice traffic slowing down and begin to brake on his own.

THE BOTTOM LINE

It's a bit weird to be talking about any vehicle with a nearly $60k starting price as a "bargain" - but that's what the Range Rover Sport is. The new V-8s, meanwhile, fix the one real flaw this model had.

The end result is a very appealing high-end Sport Ute that can honestly be called sporty - without making a fool of oneself.


Monday, October 4, 2010

Sizing Up Cars From Used Car Dealers

Sizing Up Cars From Used Car Dealers, When you are purchasing your next used car, it is important to have some handy tips for the decision. After all buying a car new or used is one of the most important purchases that you will make in your life. You deserve the very best and most for your money when purchasing a car from used car dealers. Here are some tips to make the purchase go more smoothly.


Shock Absorbers Test

Shock absorbers are nearly impossible to see and most of us do not know how to tell if they need replacing soon or not. Use the palm of your hands to press against the corner of the car you are thinking of purchasing. Most likely the shocks are bad or will need replacing soon if the car bounces in an up and down motion when you release the corner. Ask the used car dealers to replace the shocks before leaving the lot.

Examine the Tail Pipe

Worn rings and bad valves are very costly to repair and replace on autos. The majority of warranties will not cover this expense. Examine the tail pipe and make sure that it is relatively clean. If there is black soot or gummy material on the tail pipe this is a good indicator that the valves or rings are going to need replacement. You are better off selecting a different car on the lot.

Examine the Fluids

You do not have to be a mechanic to check the fluids of the car. Examine the radiator and radiator fluid to check for any rust. Ask the used car dealers to turn the car on and let the engine idle. Check the transmission fluid to make sure that it is not a brownish color or have any foul odors. Check the oil to make sure that it is not white or have white bubbles in it when you remove the cap. Also, the oil should read as full on the measuring stick.

If you find problems with the fluids or the radiator these can be a sign of hidden mechanical problems. This will be a used car that you want to completely avoid purchasing because the used car dealers will not be able to fix all the potential problems that you might have later down the road with this particular auto. You can find more auto advice at http://www.carmild.com
Mileage Check

Unfortunately some used car dealers or individual sellers will tamper with the odometer to lower the mileage indication on the used car. Examine the interior of the car and pay close attention to the driver's side for wear and tear. For example, if you notice that the break peddle or under the floor mat near the gas peddle has a lot of wear and tear this could be an indication that the very low mileage on the car is a result of mileage tampering. Also, check the front edge of the driver's seat and even the door handle for wear and tear to see if it is what you would expect with the number of miles indicated on the car. If the two do not add up, it is better to go shopping with other used car dealers in your area and completely avoid the one that you are at.

Flood Damage and Leaks

Any type of flood damage is required to be reported by the used car dealers or owner. However, this part of the car's history might be hidden. The other difficulty that you can run into is a car seems perfectly fine and then the first hard rain the car is wet on the inside. Sit inside the car a couple minutes and smell it. Flood damage or leaky cars will have a musty smell to them even after they have been thoroughly cleaned.

Twitter Delicious Facebook Digg Stumbleupon Favorites More

 
Powered by Blogger | Printable Coupons